The Badass Badlands of South Dakota


Wind swept off the South Dakota land and straight into Stud’s sides. Then came rain. Oh and I-90 decided to close their west bound lanes down for several miles, siphoning us vehicles into one lane on the east bound side of the highway. With each oncoming semi that passed in the narrow lane next to me, a gust of rain and wind slammed into Stud, shaking him violently and covering his windshield in a wall of water. And each time, I cursed helplessly while my clammy hands gripped the old wheel tightly. I was in a bad mood. And then we hit the Badlands.

They are almost inconspicuous from the highway. Perhaps we would have driven right by had we not seen the signs guiding us to the national park. Already I was in better spirits knowing I’d soon be off the road and out under the naked sky that seemed to be clearing. Ever since I first heard the name of this place, even before I even knew what the place was, I have wanted to go to the Badlands. It just sounded bad in a good kind of way. Like a badass.

After a quick jaunt at the visitor’s center, Kelly and I geared up for a hike. We were told by the park people that a lot of the trails would probably be inaccessible due to the amount of rain that had dropped down in the previous hours. We first tried the Saddle Pass Trail, wanting to connect up to the Castle Trail or Medicine Root Loop Trail.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakotaThis first route didn’t work out so well. Though the rain had stopped, the earth was still wet. There in the Badlands, wet earth is synonymous with mud. Slippery mud. We climbed up a hill of wet earth, grasping it with our shoes. And then our hands. Soon we were walking up hill like dogs, until we couldn’t anymore. My hands were covered in thick paste that became white and chalky as it dried. Our feet could no longer move our bodies forward without sliding backward, so it became useless on the steep land formation. If it had started to rain again, we would have been in trouble. I was glad Kelly felt the same as I did, and we decided it would be best to turn back.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota
Step in this earth and you sink a few inches in mud.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota
As far as we got on the Saddle Pass trail because it was too slippery.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

We hopped in Stud and drove a bit further along the Badlands Loop Road to the head of Castle Trail and Fossil Exhibit Trail. At the end of a quick loop on the Fossil Exhibit Trail, we passed a group listening to the ranger talk about a turtle fossil. “It almost looks like a HAMBURGER fossil!” he exclaimed as some of the people in the group laughed. We laughed too as we walked across the road to Castle Trail, but for different reasons. There really was no clear trail at the beginning, so we walked in our own directions on our own paths across the unique ground. Often it deceived me; mud holes disguised as seemingly solid ground.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota
Can you find Kelly?

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

journeyfoot badlands south dakota mud
Oops.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

Kelly found the Castle Trail as it moved into green. The contrast between the orange and white colored earth and the green shrubs and grass is what, in my opinion, makes this place special. It’s almost as though southwestern desert meets fresh grasslands in only a small pocket of space.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

 

 

 

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

We walked for a couple of miles to the junction of saddle pass trail and ended up where we would have if we had been able to continue up our original hike. I was glad for the change of plans.

saddle pass trail castle trail badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota
View from the top of Saddle Pass, accessed from Castle Trail.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota
Hi Stud.

Once back to Stud, we boiled water in the parking lot over my backpacking stove. Pasta with avocados and cheese and tomatoes was delicious. A quick stop at an overview and we were off.

badlands journeyfoot hike south dakota stud

And a trip to the Badlands can’t be complete without a stop at…. WALL DRUG!

2 comments

  • Awesome pictures Jayme, I’m so jealous of the fact that you get to travel around on all these journeys making memories that will last a lifetime. In my minds eye I can picture you telling these stories to your grand children someday, regaling them with the adventures Grandma did when she was young, they will be so much the better for it. I know how proud your mom is of you and your talents and can only imagine your Grandma must be smiling down on you, riding along on these excursions, just as proud. Her spirit has been passed onto you from your mom and that shows in the way you write. It’s always with a sense of wonder and innocence with just a touch of saucy and your less is more style is refreshing to say the least. I fully expect someday to open a book I got from Amazon.com to find your picture on the back flap describing how the latest NY Times best selling writer got her start with her Journeyfoot blog. I fully expect a hug when I come to the signing. Keep up the great work, you’re truly a talented writer.

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